During our 'Round the World' trip in 2010, I learned about the ongoing Greenhill Observatory project for the University of Tasmania. This was to install a 1.27 metre telescope at a dark site in central Tasmania to replace the light polluted 1 metre telescope at Mount Canopus, Hobart. I made a modest donation, and was kept informed of progress through the University system. In November 2012 I received an invitation to attend the official opening on February 23rd 2013. A long way to go, but with my wife's Sister living in Tas (and her birthday on 22nd!) and a wish to further image the Southern night sky it was go! (All thumbnail photos are linked to larger ones. Some browsers will show a border, but anyway just click on the thumbnail to see the larger photo).

We arrived in Tasmania at Hobart airport on 13th February, collected our hire car, and the next day travelled up to the Cradle Mountain area. This wilderness National Park is a prime tourist location, well served with accommodation but with virtually zero light pollution, even darker than the Observatory site, and at 3000 feet altitude a prime candidate for astrophotography. This Google Earth light pollution map clearly shows the potential of Tasmania skies. With only half a million population much of Tasmania is uninhabited and vast areas of wilderness are protected as National Parks.

For the Cradle Mountain area we stayed at the Wilderness Village. Beautifully located just above the National Park Visitor Centre among unspoilt forest. Our chalet was new this year and very well appointed. As soon as we arrived, remarkably unafraid wildlife was in evidence! We had our first view of the iconic Cradle Mountain from the village reception area, but after the long drive from Hobart (and remaining jet lag!) called it a day. The next day we went to the Visitor Centre to start exploring the area, and before you could say Cradle Mountain we were in a helicopter for a superb ride around the area! Wonderful views of the mountain and Dove Lake and the rugged and mountainous back country. An excellent view of Crater Lake. After the flight we travelled up to Dove Lake using the transfer bus and enjoyed a walk around the lake. Cradle Mountain rises to 5069 feet above sea level, but because the lake is 3065 feet ASL, the true height of the mountain is not so apparent.

Now we had found our way around the area we spent the remaining three days enjoying the many and varied walks in the beautiful valley. Crater Lake circuit was a superb walk. A delightful climb through woodland to the lake itself at 3400 feet above sea level with the wall behind rising to 4167 ft. Wombat Pool was charming with the densest population of tadpoles I have ever seen! A serene Lake Lilla with Dove Lake just visible behind. Then a long stretch of boardwalk leading back to the bus stop at Ronny Creek. The more readily accessible areas are extensively linked by several miles of well constructed boardwalk to minimise erosion and protect the sensitive alpine flora.

The weather had been very dry, leading to extensive brush fires in the South a few weeks before we arrived, so the waterfalls in the area gave only an indication of what they could look like in wet weather. But the settings were beautiful! Pencil Pine Falls are situated in rich ancient woodland as are Knyvet Falls, both only a short walk from the Ranger Centre. The long (4 mile) boardwalk between Ronny Creek and the Ranger Station passed through varying countryside with beautiful views. The area was originally settled by Gustav Weindorfer at the beginning of the 20th century. He tirelessly promoted the area and was instrumental in it gaining National Park status. A replica of his 'Waldheim' cabin was very interesting, and surrounded again by ancient woodland.

During our walks we saw a variety of wildlife. Grass Skink lizards were often seen basking on the boardwalks, indeed we had to be careful not to step on them,although usually they were quick to dive under the boards and hide! Less nervous was this Echidna which happily foraged only a couple of feet away. The mother Wombat and Joey, unusually out in the daytime, kept to the long grass. The handsome, noisy and ubiquitous Currawong Australian Raven was very much in evidence, not only in most of the woodland but also around our chalet. And the Brush Tail Possum made itself at home, enjoying a somewhat overripe plum on this occasion. A frequent visitor to our chalet it was quite unafraid and once it got to know me not only climbed on my knee but even explored the inside of our car! One evening it turned up with a Joey, unfortunately no photo. Generally considered a pest, but on this occasion quite delightful.

I had hoped to do lots of astrophotography while at the Cradle Mountain area. The (14th February) evening of our arrival there was beautifully clear at first although it clouded over later, but with the jet lag and long drive from Hobart I was too shattered to do other than admire the view, and there was nowhere near our chalet with open enough sky. The next day the site warden suggested I use the Visitor Centre car park which was free and open 24 hours. Sure enough it was eminently suitable. But read on:

Alas the weather was unkind - despite wall to wall sunshine during the day, every evening it clouded over after Sunset. I only managed 2 frames under clear skies one evening and this is the result. 15th February, 2 x 10 minutes (and the second started to cloud over half way through - just visible as a haze around the Small Magellanic Cloud) using my Canon 350D and Tamron 17-50 mm f2.8 zoom lens at 17 mm, f5.6 and ISO800. Unguided on my EQ3-2 mount. The medium size image (click on the thumbnail) has 'mouseover' names for several objects. Larger image with names here. (I didn't notice the comet near the Small MagellanicCloud until June 2013!) This image appeared in the August 2013 issue of Sky at Night magazine. Full Size (2.1 MB!)

On 18th February there was an occultation of Jupiter by the Moon. Not visible in the UK, but I managed to observe and capture it from our location despite tree branches and clouds. I had to keep moving the mount to avoid branches, and unfortunately the focus shifted slightly so the field stars and moons of Jupiter are not the pinpoints of earlier but partially obscured attempts. But worth keeping! Canon 350D with Canon 400L Lens, single 2 second exposure at f5.6 and ISO 100. Just enough Earthshine to see the unlit part of the Moon. The star which has emerged from Occultation (top left) is 5th magnitude Omega Tauri. This image appeared in the April 2013 issue of Astronomy Now magazine. Full Size

The cloudy nights were a major disappointment, but tempered by the beautiful daytime weather. The last night it actually started to rain just after I set up, and the morning of our departure dawned very misty - not much fun for those intending to walk that day! The shuttle buses were all lined up ready for their daily trips to Dove Lake, but not for us! However the Sun did burn through later, and we enjoyed a stop over in the interesting small town of Sheffield, famous for its murals. A small selection here.

 

We moved on to our relations near Launceston and stayed with them for a few nights. Cataract Gorge in Launceston is a famous area, amazingly close to the town centre and we enjoyed a walk there, in the hot sunshine. River cruises go part way up until the area of rapids. This house perched high on the hillside looks at first as though it can only be reached by helicopter! But all is revealed when the gorge opens out to a leisure area complete with cafes and a swimming pool, both sides linked by a bridge and causeway. The gorge continues and a full day's walk is possible. Too hot for us that day! Again due to the dry weather not much water coming down. But floods in the past have completely inundated the leisure area.

The next day we travelled back to Hobart for the Observatory opening the following morning. Early drizzle soon stopped and the day brightened up although a brisk wind kept it cool at the 2000 foot elevation of the Observatory at Bisdee Tier, approximately 40 miles North of Hobart. The Observatory has been designed with future instrumentation in mind, not just photography but a dedicated spectroscopy department. The layout is such that the residential building is remote from the dome linked by a long corridor, presumably to minimise thermal effects. It is clearly visible on Google Earth! The dome itself is temperature controlled. A substantial solar panel array provides water heating and electricity - I don't know whether this is the sole source charging a battery bank or just 'green' energy in conjunction with a mains supply. The elevated location provides wonderful views on all sides. As explained in the University description the telescope was donated by the entrepreneur philanthropist Caisey Harlingten. At the time of the opening it was still being commissioned. Balanced and some drive testing and preliminary alignment, but not yet 'first light'. We met up again with noted astronomer Shevill Mathers who was also taking numerous photographs of the assembly, including one with us in the pic (left front). The Tasmania Governor, Peter Underwood (who sadly died unexpectedly the following year) officially opened the facility - quite an occasion. And again just to prove I was there!

The ceremony was all over by 12 noon, so with the afternoon free we headed West to Mount Field National Park. On the way we passed through an area where there had been brush fires in January. This was just one of several devastated areas. To a certain extent fire is a necessary aid to gum tree forest regeneration, but no one wants it in their back yard! The National Park was fortunately untouched. In the lower areas tree ferns were particularly abundant, and Russell and Horseshoe Falls were beautiful even though the water flow was much reduced. The forest there boasts some of the biggest trees in Australia - the giant swamp gum Eucalyptus Regnans. This particular tree was the tallest in the forest at 79 metres (259 feet), and many others came close.

With only one more day in Tasmania before returning home, we decided to take one of the much praised sea cruises around Tasman Island at the South East tip of Tasmania. Tasmania originated during the break up of ancient Gondwanaland as a volcanic plug mainly consisting of Dolerite, which is particularly evident in the high cliffs of the Tasman peninsula. During our drive down we passed huge areas of burnt out forest and numerous destroyed houses. No photographs - it was just too distressing. But the area near Port Arthur and the boat centre had escaped unscathed. Our boat was substantial and powerful. Mudstone cliffs were in evidence, particularly favoured as nesting areas by seabirds. Numerous sea caves had been eroded over the millenia and the boat entered several of these. We needed to keep in the shelter of the land - there was a strong North Easterly blowing, and the gap between the mainland and Tasman Island was quite wild, so we were unable to completely circumnavigate it. But what we did see was most interesting with brown Fur Seals in abundance and the massive striated Dolerite cliffs towering over all.